Although it could look like the hair scales have utterly tilted in favor of curly lady domination, chemical relaxers — or lotions that semipermanently straighten hair — are nonetheless very a lot a factor. With any hair texture, curly or straight, establishing a routine that can hold strands wholesome, hydrated and full requires a hell of lots of work. For those that don’t have the time or curiosity to place right into a multistep model or care routine, relaxers might look like a straightforward repair, nevertheless it’s truly the alternative.
When any type of chemical is concerned, hair is immediately compromised — so your day by day habits are essential for sustaining the integrity and well being of your mane. But in case you’re somebody who swears by a relaxer each couple of months, hairstylist Pekela Riley has some useful data on precisely how one can hold your locks luscious via all of it.
Perfect the method
One of crucial issues you are able to do for relaxed hair is persist with a constant touch-up schedule. Although it varies from individual to individual, six to 10 weeks is the final vary of time that you need to go between therapies. Even in case you really feel like your roots are rising out quick and also you’re due for a touch-up, stick it out and don’t re-treat too quickly. It can result in critical harm.
“Parts of the hair can be overprocessed and under-processed, which creates uneven tension and break points when not relaxed consistently,” Riley cautions. Also, attempt to keep away from any overlap, which is when the relaxer is placed on the earlier part of hair that has already been handled. Make positive the method is utilized to new progress on the root.
Don’t erase the feel
Relaxers have all the time had a level of healthiness to them, and since fewer stylists are doing them lately, they’re taking the time to grow to be extra educated on the appliance and how one can make them more healthy for hair. Where relaxers can go all mistaken is once you attempt to make the strands too straight.
“There was a time when people would get mad if their hair wasn’t bone straight via a relaxer, which takes a lot of processing time. This extreme demand for straight hair led to the misuse of relaxers,” says Riley.
Relaxers have been meant to loosen up a curl or wave, not straighten it out, which in the end eliminates its elasticity. “The intention was to relax it enough to do a roller set, blow-dry or style it. The relaxer was a process to aid in styling ability,” says Riley. She all the time warns towards combining keratin therapies with relaxers as a result of it’s simply an excessive amount of for hair to deal with.
Color with warning
If you wish to add colour on prime of your relaxer, persist with both a semi- or demi-permanent dye — by no means everlasting colour, which is certain to trigger breakage. “The exception is if you have really short hair, like a pixie — you can cut the hair faster than the rate of damage,” Riley notes.
Add metallic dyes that you simply combine with water to the checklist of don’ts as effectively. They don’t work together effectively with relaxed hair. Some spray-on hair colours which have metallic pigments in them must be averted as effectively.
If you wish to play with colour, contemplate your model or lower. Natural hair permits for extra colour. There’s an choice to have each relaxed and pure texture on the similar time. “For a lot of women with medium- and short-length hair that needs relaxing on the back and sides — I leave the top and crown natural to have color. This merges the best of both worlds,” says Riley.
Try the texturizing technique
A texturizer and common relaxer are the identical chemically. Often, texturizers are delicate relaxers. The distinction is the timing instruction, as texturizers don’t sit on the hair for as lengthy. The texturizer processing time is fractional, which permits it simply sufficient time to clean the curl, versus an everyday relaxer, which erases all waves and curls utterly out of the hair.
Any texture can stand up to a light or regular relaxer. The variation comes with the diploma of processing time wanted, which must be adjusted in response to the feel. The rule of thumb is you need to solely use the bottom energy of relaxer you want, so you will have time to use correctly with out overprocessing.
Look for indicators of harm
Relaxed hair turns into unhealthy when it’s overprocessed. Overprocessing occurs when the hair is damaged down greater than it must be, previous the purpose the place the keratin protein, naturally present in hair strands, is compromised.
All hair textures and kinds, relaxed and curly, have the identical elementary wants. Riley calls them the Power Threes: moisture, protein and important oils. “With curly hair, the curl in and of itself represents elasticity, so it can expand and contract back into place,” she says.
Relaxed hair takes out an excessive amount of of the elasticity, so it can’t return into place with out breaking. It turns into like a stick — in case you attempt to pull on it, it may solely break; there’s no wave, curl or recoil for it to contract again into place. Curly hair can stretch generally twice as a lot as relaxed hair with out breaking. “You can tell it’s not healthy because it will be limp or mushy and very easily broken,” says Riley.
Maintain your mane
No matter what your texture model, curly or straight, holding your ends trimmed will stop splitting and breakage. Riley additionally suggests rotating among the many Power Threes in three-week intervals: Do a moisture therapy the primary week, change to a protein therapy the 2nd week, and for the 3rd, swap in important oils.
Also, hold warmth styling on relaxed hair to a minimal. Any hair is inclined to warmth harm, however relaxed hair is much more susceptible. If you’re going to make use of a curling or flat iron, set the temp to the bottom choice. “You never ever need hot heat on relaxed hair,” says Riley.
Originally posted on StyleCaster.