Craft Werk: Meet the maestros of the style business | Fashion


Is craft the brand new black? Yes, if the line-up of participants of London Craft Week – which kicked off within the capital yesterday – is something to go by. The five-day occasion options a number of influential style names together with Loewe, Mulberry, Christian Louboutin, Le Kilt, Alice Archer, Gieves & Hawkes and Delpozo. All are collaborating in workshops, exhibitions and occasions that goal to make the hyperlink between craft and style a robust 1.

Strike a pose: Loewe creative director, Jonathan Anderson with the 2018 Loewe Craft Prize winner Jennifer Lee and Helen Mirren, who presented Lee with the award.

Strike a pose: Loewe artistic director, Jonathan Anderson with the 2018 Loewe Craft Prize winner Jennifer Lee and Helen Mirren, who offered Lee with the award. Photograph: Darren Gerrish

And why wouldn’t they? In the previous 5 years, craft has turn into actually cool in style. Chanel’s autumn/winter 2016 couture present was devoted to the ladies who craft the collections, often called the “petit mains”; manufacturers which prioritise the native artisan – resembling Hiut Jeans, which reinvigorated the city of Cardigan by establishing its enterprise there – have been hailed as examples to observe. Meanwhile, style influencers are giving equal significance to timeless objects – resembling glassware and ceramics – as they’re the most recent style pattern. The artistic director Alex Eagle, for instance, sells hand-embroidered sneakers alongside hand-thrown tableware by ceramicist Nicola Easton, whereas Laura Jackson’s forthcoming assortment for Habitat in June options what she calls “a Wes Anderson jug – it’s massive and half red, half pink!”

Collectively, it has been firmly placed on the style business’s agenda – and no model has finished extra to plug the hole within the mainstream aware than Loewe, the go-to luxurious style label for purposeful items which have a creative twist. Its annual Craft prize, which was arrange by its artistic director Jonathan Anderson in 2013, celebrates and helps worldwide artisans who “demonstrate an exceptional ability to create objects of superior aesthetic value” in disciplines together with ceramics, bookbinding, jewelry, leather-based, textiles, metallic and wooden. It awards €50,000 (£44,100) to the winner.

Winner Jennifer Lee’s Loewe Craft prize-winning piece.

Winner Jennifer Lee’s Loewe Craft prize-winning piece. Photograph: PR

“It’s about being associated with something – that’s the biggest thing we have culturally at the moment, trying to define ourselves not through image, but with a skill,” says Anderson. “When I joined Loewe, I wanted to set this prize up because I would be in the factory and see people who work in my team sit there painstakingly making bags – I mean hours and hours – and we forget that. We have teams of craftspeople refining and refining … the hours that goes into making a bag is crazy. I thought: ‘How can I do something which I love and shed light on things that should have more light on it?’ While we are engulfed in communication and imagery, there [remains] something in humanity that makes us want to touch and thats what craft is about.”

Last week, the 2018 prize make clear Jennifer Lee, the London-based ceramicist from Aberdeenshire who has developed a singular methodology of colouring her clay by mixing it with metallic oxides. Lee observes the elevated curiosity in her craft in recent times as bittersweet. “It suddenly is cool, but so bizarre, too, because all these art schools are closing their ceramics departments which is awful. At Camberwell [College of Arts], for example, where some of the most incredible makers have come through, there’s no longer a specific ceramics department because funding has been cut.”

At Mulberry, which is internet hosting demonstrations of how its leather-based items are handmade in its London flagship, an apprenticeship programme was established in 2006 to protect the talent set that’s liable to being misplaced from such spending cuts.

Mulberry creative director, Johnny Coca: “We have a commitment to be manufacturing most of our leathers goods in the UK.”

Mulberry artistic director, Johnny Coca: “We have a commitment to be manufacturing most of our leathers goods in the UK.” Photograph: Mulberry

“We feel the responsibility to educate new generations about the beauty of making to nurture the talent of the people that will be driving the fashion and luxury industry in the future,” says its artistic director Johnny Coca. “The programme is one of the reasons why I wanted to join Mulberry. It’s incredibly important; if we hadn’t started it [when we did], we would have been at risk of losing our workforce in the years to come. We have a commitment to be manufacturing most of our leathers goods in the UK and this scheme is crucial to keep building our future heritage.”

If honouring craft is essential to sustaining a style workforce, its present renaissance can be attributed to the present rhetoric surrounding sustainability, says Samantha Roach, founder and designer at London style week favorite Le Kilt.

“Young people in particular seem much more interested in the provenance of their clothing. They want to understand how their clothes are made and who has made them,” she says. Traditional craftsmanship is on the coronary heart of Roach’s model, which is working workshops over LCW in collaboration with the textile design consultancy Norn, to assist educate attendees on artisanal craft methods. It additionally has a present exhibition, Innovation Through Tradition, on the Michael Hoppen Gallery.

Le Kilt: “Traditional skills are at the heart of what we do.”
Le Kilt: “Traditional skills are at the heart of what we do.” Photograph: pr

“We want our customers to understand the value in an item of clothing that has its own personal story through repair, provenance and DIY touches,” says Roach. “For example, we have unravelled discarded tartan fabrics and used the yarns to weave into patches, therefore ensuring nothing goes to waste. Subculture has always been an important reference point, and we see craft as a form of anti-consumerism – it’s our own statement against disposable fashion. By educating people on the impact that clothing production has on the environment, we hope it will encourage people to invest their garments.”

The embroidery detail on a dress from Alice Archer’s spring/summer 2018 collection.

The embroidery element on a costume from Alice Archer’s spring/summer time 2018 assortment. Photograph: PR

Craft doesn’t, nevertheless, equate solely to one thing handmade within the style panorama. It can incorporate specialist digital processes too, says the style designer Alice Archer, whose model is legendary for its intricate embroidery.
“When I was a student, I learned how to hand-embroider and I worked for years as a hand-embroiderer, practising the skill. Now in my collections, I use digital embroidery like it is hand embroidery. I programme every single stitch on my computer, as if I am embroidering it by hand. This gives the embroideries some irregularities and a more emotional and human feeling, while making them infinitely reproducible.”

Archer, who has items from her archive on show within the home windows of The Place on Brook Street, throughout LCW additionally notes the “strong desire for modern takes on craft techniques such as embroidery, smocking, hand painted and printed pieces, and historic detailing” within the luxurious style business in the intervening time. “Clients seek unique products and experiences and want clothing to feel personal – I think … people will invest more money in special pieces that are more timeless and classic and involve special craft processes.”

Anderson agrees: “As a society we are a very romantic people. The romanticism of someone wearing a basket or making something is an inspiration. As a designer, I get more inspiration from doing [the Loewe Prize] that fuels what I do [than anything else]. I think if we have to encourage the next generation and this is what it’s about.”

See the full London Craft Week schedule here.

(Editor references)

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