20 finest Mediterranean recipes: half 2 | Life and magnificence


Omar Allibhoy’s arroz al horno – baked rice with pork ribs and sausage

This dish is much more well-liked in Valencia than paella and all my associates from the Mediterranean facet of Spain say that it’s Granny’s star dish for household gatherings. It is price utilizing a terracotta pot to prepare dinner the complete recipe because it captures all of the flavours from starting to finish, however you need to use a pan or oven tray as a substitute.

Serves 4
hen, pork or beef inventory 750ml
saffron threads 1g
tomato 1, or 2 cherry tomatoes, halved
garlic 1 head, pores and skin on, halved
pork ribs 300g, or smoked pancetta, reduce into small items
potato 1 small, reduce into 1-2cm cubes
morcilla 2 entire, ideally made with onion
chipolata sausages 4, or cooking chorizo, reduce into small items
candy smoked paprika 1 tsp
bay leaf 1
tomato 1, grated
paella rice 350g
tinned chickpeas 150g, drained
olive oil

Preheat the oven to 200C/fuel mark 6. Bring the inventory to the boil in a saucepan. Add the saffron and let simmer when you put together the remainder of the elements.

Place a casserole dish, roasting tray or ovenproof frying pan over a medium warmth and warmth some oil. Fry the tomato and garlic halves till golden and put aside.

Add the ribs, potato cubes and all of the sausages to the dish and prepare dinner for 15 minutes, till golden and roasted. Add the candy paprika, bay leaf, the grated tomato and salt to season, and fry rigorously whereas stirring for 3-4 minutes. Add the rice and provides all of the elements a great stir. Cook over a medium warmth for an additional 2 minutes.

Pour the boiling inventory into the dish together with the chickpeas and blend nicely, spreading the rice and meat round the entire dish. Place the garlic head and tomatoes on the highest. Cook over the very best warmth for 10 minutes after which switch to the oven for an additional 10 minutes.

Once the rice is cooked, go away it to relaxation for 3-4 minutes earlier than serving within the centre of the desk.

From Spanish Made Simple: Foolproof Spanish Recipes for Every Day by Omar Allibhoy (Quadrille, £20)

Elisabeth Luard’s ajo blanco – chilled almond soup

Ajo blanco – chilled almond soup.

Ajo blanco – chilled almond soup. Photograph: Martin Poole for the Observer

A deliciously refreshing chilly soup of the gazpacho household, as ready within the wealthy vega, the fertile plain of Granada. The inclusion of almonds is a refinement launched by the Moors. The legacy of six centuries of Muslim occupation didn’t vanish in a single day – nor certainly did the intensive plantations of almond bushes introduced from the Jordan valley. Almonds are nonetheless an essential money crop for the small farmers of Andalusia, and the nation folks nonetheless take care to plant an almond tree on the fringe of the olive groves for the pleasure of gathering the candy nuts every autumn to be saved as a Christmas deal with.

Serves 6 (you solely want somewhat)
dry bread 3-4 slices
blanched almonds 3 tbsp
garlic 4-5 contemporary younger cloves
olive oil 2 tbsp
chilly water 1 litre
white wine vinegar 2 tbsp
small grapes a handful

Put the bread, almonds, garlic, oil and a pint of the water into the blender, and mix totally. In the peasant kitchen, this job would have been achieved with a pestle and mortar, and there are those that say the soup is best thus made. Add the remainder of the water till you have got the consistency you want. Season with salt and vinegar. Leave to chill, and put to infuse within the fridge for an hour or so. Or put all of the elements besides the grapes within the blender and mix them.

Peel and pip the grapes and float them on prime of every serving of soup.

The patios of rural dwellings within the south are normally shaded by a trellis with a vine which bears grapes lengthy into the winter months, so this ingredient may be very a lot handy, and is important to the right flavouring of the soup. Little cubes of bread, fried golden in olive oil and served scorching sizzling, make a wonderful addition.

From European Peasant Cookery by Elisabeth Luard (Grub Street, £15)

Giorgio Locatelli’s fritto misto alla piazzese – blended fried greens with anchovies or sardines

Fritto misto alla piazzese – mixed fried vegetables with anchovies or sardines.

Fritto misto alla piazzese – blended fried greens with anchovies or sardines. Photograph: Martin Poole for the Observer

Sicilians love fritto misto, a lot in order that in the summertime folks arrange stalls or park vans or three-wheelers with fuel burners and massive pots on the again, and deep-fry greens or fish for you there after which.

Serves 4
child artichokes 4
lemon juice of 1
salt 1 tbsp
cauliflower 1 small, reduce into florets
cardoons 500g, tender coronary heart solely
apple 1, peeled and cored
vegetable oil for deep-frying
contemporary anchovies or small sardines 500g, cleaned

For the pastella
plain flour 250g
water 150ml
egg 1 massive, overwhelmed
contemporary yeast 10g

Peel the robust outer leaves from the artichokes, stopping whenever you attain the tender leaves, then reduce in quarters vertically. With massive artichokes, you should reduce out the furry choke, however with child ones, the choke is not going to have developed correctly, so there may be not a lot to take away. Put them right into a bowl of water with somewhat lemon juice squeezed into it, to maintain them from discolouring, till you’re prepared to make use of them. Drain, and dry.

Bring a pan of water to the boil and add the salt. Put within the cauliflower and prepare dinner for a few minutes, till simply tender, then elevate out and drain. Put the cardoons into the identical water and prepare dinner for about 7-8 minutes, till they too are simply tender, however nonetheless retain some chunk. Drain and preserve to at least one facet.

Combine the flour, water, egg and yeast to make a pastella (batter) with a fluid consistency. Slice the apple, and reduce the cardoons into strips. Heat a number of inches of oil in a high-sided pan (make certain it comes no larger than a 3rd of the way in which up the pan) to 180C. If you don’t have a thermometer, put in a number of breadcrumbs, and in the event that they sizzle the oil is prepared.

Immerse the artichokes within the pastella and deep-fry till golden. Lift out and drain on kitchen paper. Repeat with the cardoons, cauliflower and apple, then the anchovies or sardine fillets, and organize every part collectively on a heat serving plate.

From Made in Sicily by Giorgio Locatelli (4th Estate, £30)

Nigel Slater’s squid full of judión beans and tomatoes

Squid stuffed with judión beans and tomatoes.

Squid full of judión beans and tomatoes. Photograph: Jonathan Lovekin

For 4
squid, judión or butter beans, tomatoes, garlic, rosemary, dry sherry

Peel and finely slice 4 garlic cloves, then fry in a skinny layer of olive oil in a deep frying pan until very calmly colored. Cut 8 tomatoes into roughly 8 items every, then add to the garlic, along with the chopped leaves from a bushy sprig of rosemary. Cook for six or 7 minutes, until the combination is mushy, aromatic and fairly juicy. Season with salt and pepper.

Drain 650g judión beans or butter beans of any bottling or canning liquor, rinsing them in a colander if you want, then stir them gently into the tomato combination and proceed cooking, over a reasonable warmth, for five minutes. Remove from the warmth. Set the oven at 200C/fuel mark 6.

Check 4 ready medium squid, ensuring that they’re totally clear and the clear quills have been faraway from the physique sacs and discarded. Set apart the tentacles. Using a tablespoon, stuff the squid our bodies with as a lot of the filling as you may, laying them down barely aside in a roasting tin or massive baking dish. Spoon any extra filling into the roasting tin.

Pour 300ml dry sherry across the squid, add a pair extra rosemary sprigs to the tin and bake for 20-25 minutes, sometimes basting the squid with the sherry. Halfway by cooking, tuck the reserved tentacles across the squid our bodies.

Serve the squid and tentacles in shallow bowls or on deep plates, spooning the skinny juices round them as you go.

From Eat by Nigel Slater (4th Estate, £26)

Anissa Helou’s Ammto Zahiyeh’s borma – candy walnut coil

Borma – sweet walnut coil.

Borma – candy walnut coil. Photograph: Martin Poole for the Observer

This is my Syrian aunt’s recipe for selfmade baklava, which she fashioned into 1 massive coil – therefore the identify borma, which means “rolled” or “turned” in Arabic. She used to make her personal dough, however to save lots of time I substitute with a good-quality filo pastry, normally a Greek or Turkish model.

Serves 6
golden caster sugar 275g
lemon juice 1 tsp
rose water 1½ tbsp
orange blossom water 1½ tbsp
shelled walnuts 200g, finely floor
floor cinnamon ¾ tsp
unsalted butter 75g, melted, plus additional for greasing
Greek or Turkish filo pastry 6 sheets measuring 31 x 46cm

You’ll want a baking dish measuring 25cm in diameter.

Put 175g of the sugar in a saucepan, add 75ml of water and place the pan over a medium warmth. Bring to the boil and let the syrup bubble for 3 minutes, then add the lemon juice and 1 tablespoon every of the rose and orange blossom water. Remove the pan from the warmth and put aside to chill.

Mix the bottom walnuts with the remaining sugar, rose and orange blossom water and the cinnamon.

Preheat the oven to 220C/fuel mark 7, and brush the baking dish with somewhat melted butter. If utilizing a non-stick dish or pan, you gained’t must grease it.

Spread 1 sheet of filo in your work floor with the lengthy facet dealing with you – preserve the opposite sheets coated in order that they don’t dry up and turn out to be brittle. Brush with among the melted butter. Arrange one-sixth of the walnut filling in a skinny line lengthways throughout the sheet, about 1cm (1in) from the sting nearest to you. Fold the pastry over the walnuts and roll tightly into a skinny sausage. Coil up the roll and place within the centre of the baking dish or tin. Make the remaining walnut rolls and coil them across the preliminary coil till the dish is totally coated.

Brush the highest with melted butter and bake within the oven for 20-25 minutes or till golden brown. Remove from the oven, pour the sugar syrup all around the borma and permit to chill. Serve at room temperature.

From Levant by Anissa Helou (Harper Collins, £20)


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