Nigel Slater’s festive leftovers recipes | Life and magnificence


Tonight, the expectation. Will the goose be juicy? Will the pudding flame? Is Santa going to return? And tomorrow, let me guarantee you, can be simply wonderful. (A primary-time prepare dinner not too long ago confided in me that she was terrified. I instructed her to not fear. We all are.) My ideas, although, are already on the times that observe. To my thoughts, these are the times of actual feasting.

There can be, come what might, that magnificent annual doorstop of a sandwich, with pickings from the roast chook or nut roast, layers of stuffing, apple sauce and recent watercress, and plates of fried plum pudding with brandy butter to observe. With luck, we will even tuck right into a fry-up of bits and items from the fridge, or bubble and squeak made within the outdated forged iron pan with leftover potatoes, sprouts and, better of all, nuggets of leftover sausage and bacon.

Inevitably, we will have one thing made with substances of which I’ve purchased too many. (I’d do effectively to remind myself that Christmas is a celebration, not a siege.) Parsnips for example, sprouts, blue cheese or potatoes. Truth instructed, I’ve a suspicion that I over-buy sure issues intentionally, with these post-Yule feasts in thoughts.

There have to be soup on Boxing Day on this home: a deep casserole of simmering bones and beans or one thing with Brussels sprouts, completed with a handful of chestnuts fried in butter and thyme. Goose inventory – the edible treasure rescued from beneath the carcass and shredded, mealy butterbeans and herbs – is all the time a winner, notably if there was a good frost and the soup is served scorching sufficient to scald our lips.

This 12 months, I already know there can be a surfeit of parsnips and blue cheese. I do know as a result of I did the procuring. A crafty choice on my half to make a pot of parsnip soup, with swimming pools of Stilton melting into its ivory depths.

Roast parsnip and stilton soup, beetroot crisps

Roasting the parsnips first isn’t an affectation. Their caramelised notes breathe a deep sweetness into the soup.

Serves 4
onions 2, medium-sized
olive oil 5 tbsp
parsnips 1kg
milk 500ml

to complete:
beetroot 250g
olive oil 1 tbsp
blue cheese 250g

Peel the onions, then roughly chop them. Warm 2 tbsp of oil in a heavy-based saucepan, stir within the chopped onion and depart over a low to medium warmth till the onion is pale gold, translucent and tender (this takes longer than you may assume, 10-15 minutes with the occasional stir). Set the oven to 200C/fuel mark 6.

Peel the parsnips, reduce them in 1/2 lengthways after which into brief, fats chunks. Put them right into a roasting tin with the remaining 3 tbsp of oil, season then toss gently and roast within the oven for about 45 minutes, checking their progress now and again, till they’re golden and shiny. A fast flip midway by way of cooking will guarantee all sides are evenly golden.

Pour the milk into the softened onions and convey to the boil. Remove the parsnips from the oven and add them to the milk and onions. Using a stick blender, scale back the milk and greens to a creamy purée. Check the seasoning (be beneficiant with pepper) and make sure the combination is piping scorching earlier than ladling into bowls.

To make the beetroot crisps, peel the beetroot and slice it as thinly as you possibly can – definitely no thicker than a fancy crisp. Put the slices right into a bowl, toss with the 1 tbsp olive oil and a bit of salt then place them on a baking sheet in a single layer. Bake at 200C/fuel mark 6 for 25-30 minutes until calmly crisp.

Crumble the cheese and place on the floor of the soup earlier than including the beetroot crisps and serving. Stir the cheese into the soup as you eat.

Brussels sprout and bacon truffles

Post-Yule feast: Brussels sprout and bacon cakes.

Post-Yule feast: Brussels sprout and bacon truffles. Photograph: Jonathan Lovekin for the Observer

Serves 2
For the sauce:
liquid honey 1 tbsp
Worcestershire sauce 2 tsp
soy sauce 2 tsp
oyster sauce 1 tbsp
spring onion 1

For the truffles:
streaky bacon 125g
Brussels sprouts 250g
butter 20g
egg 1
milk 100ml
water 100ml

Trim the Brussels sprouts, eradicating yellowing or bruised leaves. Shred finely then put them in a bowl.

In a small bowl, combine collectively the honey, Worcestershire, soy and oyster sauces, then put aside. Finely slice the spring onion and reserve.

Cut the bacon into stamp-sized items, then prepare dinner them in a dry, nonstick pan till their fats begins to run, letting them crisp calmly. Add the butter to the pan, then, when it has melted and mixed with the bacon fats, add the shredded Brussels sprouts. Toss the sprouts and bacon and their fat collectively, season calmly with black pepper then proceed cooking till the sprouts are tender and vibrant inexperienced.

Make the batter by calmly beating the egg to combine yolk and white, then pour within the milk and water. Remove the Brussels sprouts and bacon from the warmth and tip into the batter combination.

Get a few frying pans scorching then pour a shallow movie of oil, simply sufficient to moisten the bottom, into them. Divide the combination between the pans, smoothing the floor stage then depart over a low to medium warmth till pale gold on the underside. Using a palette knife (or a fish slice in case you are utilizing 1 bigger pan) fastidiously flip the little truffles over then proceed cooking till calmly agency to the contact.

Remove from the warmth, scatter with the chopped spring onions, then trickle the sauce over the floor and serve.

Email Nigel at [email protected] or observe him on Twitter @NigelSlater

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