Pies and pastries – Jeremy Lee’s 12 puddings of Christmas half 1 | Life and elegance


The yuletide cook dinner has numerous kitchen choreography to carry out, over many days, to feed the descending hordes of household and mates. So having an important retailer of scrumptious issues on the prepared is a good suggestion. The clever cook dinner wants all method of concepts for treats up their sleeve – not only for mealtimes but additionally for snacks earlier than midnight mass, at afternoon tea, for after-dinner motion pictures …

Something I realized from my mother and father rising up is that conjuring as a lot theatrical jollity as might be is important – the largest present being, after all, a desk laid with a variety of love.

One vivid reminiscence is of an important desk of polished oak in our eating room, piled excessive with oranges and clementines, Mum being infamous for panic-buying citrus fruits. Another is the large array of my mom’s extraordinary baking for the Christmas hols, surrounded by Christmas lights and candles and all method of festive thingummyjigs. Especially desserts – and plenty of them. One yr I counted seven, and identified to Mum that we have been solely a household of six. Mum pointed to a cabinet the place tins with extra biscuits and desserts have been piled excessive, after which, laughing merrily, pointed to the freezer, the place she’d stashed much more “emergency rations for just in case”.

These bakes have been all so good. When pondering of 12 puddings for Christmas, I attempted to consider all the nice classics that many individuals would possibly get pleasure from. At the outset of the festive season, Mum would plunder the bookshelves for all her favorite recipes, and the pile of books by Elizabeth David, Jane Grigson, Claudia Roden and lots of extra remained, all through December, by the stool Mum all the time sat upon on the counter within the kitchen. The listing of books I seek the advice of now are fairly related, and I’ve referred to as on all of them to compile this listing.

An outdated favorite of Mum’s was a recipe by 80s TV chef Michael Smith. It was an important mincemeat meringue tart that started life as a “Royal Pye”. Mincemeat is sat upon frangipane topped with caramelised pears, then heaped with meringue and baked crisp – it makes pretty much as good a present because it does a pudding.

We observe with little chocolate turnovers and a creme caramel – a soothing, cooling custardy respite from all of the desserts and pies. Look out for extra yuletide recipes over the weekend.

1 Mincemeat meringue tart (most important photograph)

Should the spirit be prepared, making mincemeat is a stunning job achieved early on in December – you could possibly even make a big batch, and preserve any leftovers for subsequent yr. Make the pastry the night time earlier than you want the tart, or, alternatively, as much as every week earlier than and freeze it. A go to to the grocery store for golden sugared almonds and candied mint leaves is all the time worthwhile to jolly alongside a Christmas pie. You will want a 23cm-round tart tin.

Serves 12
For the mincemeat
6 apples, braeburn, cox’s or related
Juice and zest of 1 lemon
Juice and zest of 1 orange
A 370g mixture of currants, raisins, sultanas, dried figs and apricots, chopped into small items
75g marcona almonds, chopped finely
225g darkish brown muscovado sugar
225g shredded suet
1 heaped tsp floor cinnamon
½ tsp floor cloves
¼ tsp floor mace
¼ tsp floor nutmeg
A jigger of madeira

For the pastry
130g chilly unsalted butter
250g plain flour, sifted
15g caster sugar
1 egg yolk
2 tbsp ice-cold water

For the frangipane
50g unsalted butter, softened
25g caster sugar
1 egg
50g floor almonds

For the pears
4 medium-size pears
Juice of 1 lemon
50g caster sugar

For the meringue
4 massive egg whites
250g caster sugar

To enhance (non-compulsory)
Golden sugared almonds
Candied mint leaves

1 To make the mincemeat, peel and core the apples, reduce them into small randomly formed items and toss within the lemon and orange juice to keep away from browning. Combine with the remaining elements in a big bowl and blend effectively. Decant right into a sealed container and preserve till wanted.

2 To make the pastry, reduce the butter into small items and tip into a big bowl with the flour and sugar. Mix collectively to a high quality crumb. Add the egg yolk and a little bit water. Gently work right into a dough. Tip out on to a floured floor and knead gently till clean. Form right into a tough disc, cowl and refrigerate for at the very least an hour.

3 To make the frangipane, put the butter and sugar in a bowl and beat for a minute. Add the egg, beat once more for a minute then stir within the floor almonds.

4 When able to bake, roll out the pastry on a evenly floured floor. Lift it up and swiftly drape the pastry on the tart tin, urgent gently till fitted snugly inside. Refrigerate.

5 To put together the pears, peel and core them, then chop into small randomly formed items and toss within the lemon juice to keep away from browning. Put a pan on a medium warmth and add the sugar. Let the sugar start to color and begin swirling the pan till the sugar has caramelised. Tip within the chopped pear dressed within the lemon juice. Take care because the sugar will sputter. Toss the chopped pear within the caramel and cook dinner till it softens. Set apart to chill.

6 Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/fuel mark 4. To assemble the tart, roughly unfold the frangipane on the underside of the pastry case. Strew with the pears then heap on sufficient mincemeat to only fill the tart. Put this within the fridge to settle.

7 Put the tart within the preheated oven and cook dinner for 10 minutes, then scale back the temperature to 160C/325F/fuel mark 3 for an extra 50 minutes. Remove the tart from the oven and let it cool barely on a rack. Lower the oven temperature to 120C/250F/ fuel low.

8 To make the meringue, in a clear bowl, whip the egg whites into stiff peaks. Beat in half of of the sugar till stiff peaks seem as soon as extra. Repeat with the remainder of the sugar. With daring strokes, heap the meringue on the tart, making a riot of swirls.

9 Pop it again within the oven and bake for 25-30 minutes till golden and crusted, with a fissure right here and there.

10 Decorate with golden sugared almonds and candied mint leaves, if utilizing, and serve.

2 Little chocolate turnovers

These pastries are greatest served nonetheless heat from the oven, so make them on the day.

Jeremy Lee’s little chocolate turnovers.

Mini-bites … Jeremy Lee’s little chocolate turnovers. Photograph: Jonathan West for the Guardian

Makes 16
2 sheets frozen puff pastry
Flour for rolling
125g darkish chocolate (70% cocoa), damaged into 16 items, roughly triangular in form
200ml double cream
Cream and caster sugar, to serve

1 Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/fuel mark 6 and line a baking tray with parchment. Roll out the pastry on a evenly floured floor. Cut the pastry into 16 6cm-wide squares.

2 Lay a triangle of chocolate simply inside one of many corners of the pastry sq.. Brush the perimeters of the pastry with a little bit cream. Fold the pastry in half of diagonally over the chocolate, making a triangular turnover. Repeat with the remaining squares and prepare the turnovers on the ready baking tray at the very least 3cm aside.

3 Brush them with cream and put the tray within the fridge to relaxation for at the very least half of an hour earlier than baking.

4 Bake for about 5 minutes, then test the color – if already golden, scale back to 180C and even 160C if the oven is of an enthusiastic nature, and bake for an extra 5-7 minutes. They must be puffed and golden. Cool barely. Serve with cream and caster sugar.

3 Creme caramel

Best made the day earlier than you want it to present the dessert time to set sufficiently.

Jeremy Lee’s creme caramel.

Just a little wobble is nice … Jeremy Lee’s creme caramel. Photograph: Jonathan West for the Guardian

Serves 12
1 litre of milk
175g plus 2 tbsp caster sugar
1 vanilla pod, break up and seeds scraped
A strip of orange zest
3 entire eggs, plus 7 egg yolks

1 Preheat the oven to 150C/300F/fuel mark 2. Have prepared a ceramic or metallic mould, roughly 28cm huge, 5cm deep.

2 Heat the milk in a heavy-bottomed pan. Add the two tbsp sugar, the vanilla seeds and the strip of orange zest. Heat this gently till merely a wisp of steam rises from the floor.

3 In a big bowl, beat collectively the entire eggs, then add the egg yolks. Slowly pour the milk on to the eggs, stirring gently with a picket spoon, preserving any froth to a minimal. Let it stand for whereas, then pour the nice and cozy custard by way of a high quality sieve. Spoon away any foam sitting on the floor.

4 Put the 175g caster sugar into a stainless-steel saucepan over a reasonable warmth and gently tilt the pan to maintain the sugar on the transfer because it liquefies and turns to caramel. You desire a wealthy mahogany hue; any darker and a bitter word can be launched. Swiftly pour the caramel into the mould. Holding the mould with a fabric in every hand, and exercising nice care, cautiously swirl the caramel across the backside of the mould till it’s evenly coated. Let this set, which is able to occur swiftly.

5 Put the mould in a deep oven tray. Pour the custard into the mould then put the tray in the course of the oven. Pour sufficient scorching water into the tray to carry the extent up to some centimetres wanting the floor of the custard.

6 Bake at 150C/300F/fuel mark 2 for five minutes, then scale back the temperature to 120C/250F/fuel low for 50-60 minutes, turning sometimes for even cooking. Check each 10 minutes or so to make sure there isn’t any colouring or simmering water to trigger bubbles within the custard. Test that it’s achieved by inserting a pointy knife into the center – it ought to come out clear. Just a little wobble is nice. With the utmost warning, take away the tray from the oven and let the custard sit for 10 minutes. Remove the mould from the tray, let it cool, then refrigerate – in a single day is greatest.

7 To serve, gently press down across the fringe of the custard, then run a pointy knife round it. Put a deep plate on prime of the mould, and in a single fluid movement, swiftly flip the creme caramel. Wait for the plop, shaking a little bit if vital earlier than lifting the mould.

  • Jeremy Lee is the chef-proprietor of Quo Vadis restaurant in London; @jeremyleeqv

Jeremy Lee from theguardian.com

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